If you could go anywhere...

Ever want to spontaneously go to the airport and by a plane ticket to another country without any plan?

This is something that has been on my bucket list for a while but the opportunity to do such atoning had not arisen until now. 

On the Dec 27th traveled with Haggie form Gili to Bali. I had two options when I arrived, I could either stay in Bali and explore for a few days or go to the airport and move on to another location. When we got to Bali we took a shuttle from the boat that took us into the city. On the shuttle ride we met Samuel who was from Jakarta but living in Bali at the time. He offered to show us a local place for lunch and since we had time to kill we decided to go with him. Wen we got out of the shuttle Haggie and I chuckled to ourselves because we knew the people on the shuttle that were listening to our conversation and probably thought we were crazy to go with a random guy to get lunch. Ultimately, he was just a really friendly guy that showed us cheap local food, a temple and the beach. However, after seeing all of this I decided that I had seen enough of Bali. It was nice but very touristy and not somewhere where I wanted to spend a lot of time or Christmas which was quickly approaching. I decided to go to the airport with Haggie and I would buy the cheapest plane ticket I could find. It was more challenging than I expected....there is not a desk that you can go to that has all the flight times and prices for all the airlines. I was constantly going to different desks asking for prices and information and after looking online I found a flight to Perth for 100USD and I booked it. After sitting and playing cards for a while as we waited for check in to open I thought it would be a good idea to check the us department of state website to make sure that I didn't need a visa or other documents to enter Australia. I was in Australia in 2010 but couldn't remember needing anything to enter the country....once the page loaded I looked at the entry and exit requirements..."You must have a valid U.S. passport and a visa to enter Australia. Most U.S. passport holders traveling to Australia for tourism or business purposes for less than 90 days can obtain an Electronic Travel Authority (ETA). The ETA is an electronic label-free visa and can be obtained at the ETA website for a small service fee." Ohh no. My initial thought was that I was an idiot booking a ticket before knowing if I needed a visa and then I thought I would be stuck in Bali just having thrown away $100. I could apply for a visa online and to my surprise it was approved within five minutes of me submitting the form! Phew. I got very lucky! 

Tropical Paradise

Indonesia

I spent two days in Jakarta before making my way to Gerupuk where I spent the first two weeks of December at Surf Camp Lombok. The camp was very well run. Every day we had two sessions of surfing and usually some type of surf talk, movie, or outing. I have gone surfing several times before this camp but never properly taught. Basically I just knew people who surfed and had extra boards so I would go with them but not really know what I was doing. This camp was great because it allowed me to learn the basics properly, try various boards, and practice constantly. 

As expected I had good days and bad days, good waves and bad waves but the feeling of that amazing drop in, smooth bottom turn or slight cutback makes up for all the wipeouts and white water disasters and constantly motivates the desire to paddle hard for the next wave coming in. 

Besides surfing we

Made trips to Kuta 

Relaxed in hammocks & took naps between surf sessions 

Had a prom party night 

Went on sunset walks

Went cliff Jumping

Took boat trips 

Learned the importance of sunscreen especially in the Southern Hemisphere 

(Results of a second degree sunburn)

We would surf at three main locations in Grupuk bay, Dun duns, Insides and Outsides. 

My favorite spot quickly became outsides. I enjoyed it because it had three breaks and as beginners we could surf one and look over to the break next to us and see people getting barreled and getting steep drop ins. However, some of the waves there could be a little intimidating because you could hear a barrel that was crashing in the wake that you were paddling for. However, with the intimidation factor came a motivation factor for me. The bigger and steeper the wave appeared the more motivated I was to paddle for it and either get smashed or ride it out. More often than not I would get worked by the waves but the large ones that I was able to catch gave me the most amazing feeling that can't be explained but only appreciated by those that have also experienced it as well. 

After camp about 12 of us traveled to the Gili Islands arriving the 15th after a 6am surf. Here we had time to relax, have good food, and get to know each other better because we had more free time on our hands. 

We rode bikes around the entire island

Enjoyed fresh juices in bungalows by the beach

Had local food in the pouring rain

Did a snorkeling trip in a glass bottom boat to three reefs off of three islands

Learned Swedish drinking games

Occasionally relaxed in air conditioned huts

And got into the Christmas spirit

At this point in my travels I had absolutely no plans, no plane tickets, and no schedule to follow....

Thanksgiving Momo's

On my last day in Nepal I celebrated thanksgiving with Jason another American, a South African guy and three people from a country in South America. We went to a small restaurant, ordered a ton of food including two plates of momo (one buff and one veggie). We even went around in a circle and said what we were thankful for. It was a very unique experience spent with great people that had just met and came together to share a meal and a holiday. Everyone was happy to learn and share in something that was important to us (the Americans). Every thanksgiving, I think about what I am thankful of and it is always the same, family, friends, health, etc. but this year there was someting about being away from everything that made me more thankful for it but at the same time glad i was getting to experience so any unique situations, meet kind individuals from all over and overall gain a greater view of the world. 

Trek of a Lifetime

I got my visa and exited the airport in Nepal and entered an overwhelming crowd of taxi drivers, people holding signs, and people trying to sell things. It was overwhelming and not something I wanted to deal with. Somehow I was able to find my driver and as I was putting my bag in the car it was lifted from my arm from behind me and placed in the trunk. I wasn't entirely sure what had happened until he asked me for money. Ahh. I see, you want 10 euros for doing something I was perfectly capable of doing and didn't ask for... No way was I giving him money. I pretended like I couldn't understand him...repeating the word "what" as I was getting into the car.

After checking into my hotel I was taken to the Good Karma Trekking Office where I met Raj who ran the company. He went over last minute details with me, took me to get the gear that I needed, provided me with a down jacket & sleeping bag, and took me for a welcome lunch where I had Dal Baht and a Everest beer. I met my guide named Membar, had dinner with a girl I met at the hotel, packed and went to bed early. 

Day 1

November 11

My 23rd birthday began with my alarm going off at 3:30am; I was out of bed by 4 finished packing by 5 and met Membar to make our way to the airport. We took a 14 person plane to Lukla which took about 45 minutes. It was a very scenic flight giving a small introduction to how amazing the mountains in this country are. 

I had breakfast at the Sunrise lodge in Lukla and began trekking. Phading Kongde Lodge was the first tea house I stayed in which was at an elevation of 2652m.  It was very quite; I read some of my book, Better than Fiction, and enjoyed a small pot of lemon tea before going to bed. 

Here is a picture of the start of the trek:

Day 2

Had breakfast at 7 then started hiking a little before 8. We stopped for lunch at around 9:45 which was extremely early considering I had eaten 3 hours ago. At lunch I asked Membar how long it would take to get to Namche which was our next destination. He said we would arrive around 3:30 and we actually arrived at 1:15 based on this I think he underestimated me a bit. While in Namche I stayed at Moonlight lodge. It was a very nice lodge and if I return to Namche I would stay here again. 

Namche:

Day 3

Today I got up at 7 for breakfast. I had poorage with apples and eggs with veggies. Member and I began hiking at 8. We went to Shangbuchhe airport, Mt. Everest view hotel, and Khumjung School. We returned to Moonlight lodge for lunch at noon and at 1pm went to the ATM, yes, there was an atm on the mountain! When I got to the ATM it said out of order but there were people working on it who said it would only take a few minutes. 1 hour later there was still no progress. The hour went by fairly quickly because I had conversations with several other trekkers that were waiting for the ATM to be fixed. Finally, the people just told us to come back later in the afternoon. In the mean time I went to a nearby museum. The first portion of the museum was a bit disappointing, it contained pots, pans and other artifacts that were not of much interest to me since I had seen most of them in use already. However, my initial disappointment turned around when I realized there was also a photo gallery and Mt Everest documentation gallery which was very interesting. The photo gallery had photos of people, animals, weddings and daily life of the Sherpa. The Mt Everest documentation gallery was my favorite. Within the gallery there were pictures of people that had made it to the summit as well as news paper articles of attempts, clean up efforts, altitude mountain sickness and much more. 

Both nights I have spent in the mountains I have woken up several times throughout the night. It is very cold when going to bed; changing clothes and getting into my sleeping bag is initially extremely painful. I also have realized how confining a sleeping bag is and how much I like to spread out and move around while sleeping. Nights are by far my least favorite time mainly because of these challenges. It is also tough getting up in the morning because by then I am finally not frozen and getting up into the cold air is not appealing. Somehow I manage to do it and once the day begins and I start moving I feel better. I also woke up with a bad headache which was probably due to the elevation because I was not dehydrated but after a full day of acclamation I feel better and was ready to go onwards and upwards. 

 

Day 4

Dhole at 4200m 

4.5hr hike. When I arrived I decided to take a hot shower which cost me 3USD. It was the coldest "hot shower" I have ever taken. The water was luke warm which I could have dealt with but the shower was outside and very little water came out of the shower head and there was a constant freezing breeze which did not allow me to get warm. I got out of the shower as quickly as I could and got inside where I put on all the layers I could. I dried my hair and got warm by the fire. I also decided I would not shower again until I knew the water Later that evening Ronny (another trekker from Switzerland), his guide Sumon, Membar and I shared a pot of local wine. We had all hiked together earlier that day seeing that we were going to the same place. It was hot and had rice in it which created a unique flavor. 

Day 5

Machhermo, 4470m

More than half way to Machhermo Membar realized he left his camera in Dhole. We had started hiking with Sumon and Ronny so I continued on with them when Membar went back. After retrieving his camera he met us at the tea house in Machhermo. That evening we met Ferny a Spanish guy, a Dutch couple and their guide, Chris from Australia with his guide Dipak and porter Keshy. We all sat around the fire after dinner chatting and keeping warm. I quickly became very impressed with the company which I was in. The Dutch couple's guide has summited Everest 7 times and showed us pictures of his journey. Keshy could carry enormous loads that you would not expect for someone his size and whenever he had a break he would write poetry. 

Day 6 

Gokyo 4790m

Hiked 3hrs to Gokyo where we had lunch before climbing to the top of Gokyo Ri which was 5360m. It was an unbelievable view of Everest with mountains, glaciers and lakes surrounding all of Gokyo Ri. When it was quite the cracking and movement of the glacier that we would be crossing the next day could be heard. I have watched a few documentaries where the cracking of a glacier can be heard but in person it is surreal. After this climb I had a really bad headache and did not have an appetite at dinner. Sumon gave me an Advil which eventually kicked in and I felt a bit better before going to bed. 

Day 7

Thangna

The next morning I felt better and my appetite was back which was good because I needed food for energy to cross the glacier that day. Chris, Ronny, their guides and I all collaborated and hiked together which was nice. Chris also lent me a hiking pole to use which was helpful on the slick and steep portions. 

When we arrived at our lodge Ronny, Sumon, Dipak and I played cards for several hours before going to bed. I learned to Nepal games. One game was called Duhmal and the other I will call jacks because I can't remember it's actual name. 

Day 8

Cho La Pass 5420m 

Lunch at Labuche

Gorak Shep 5140m

Everest Base Camp 5364m

This was the biggest and most challenging day of the entire trek. We began at 5am with the moon overhead and our headlamps at the ready. We started off going up hill and continued uphill for several hours. The pass was very steep, slick and dangerous; there were even chances of avalanches. I was absolutely freezing and couldn't feel my hands half of the time. Again, more so than the day before I was glad to have a hiking pole because I would not have been able to do with out it. After reaching the top I was not in the best mood. I was still freezing and was now annoyed with Membar because he would hike up then turn around and watch me and ask "are you okay" every five minutes. I told him I would tell him if I was not okay and he didn't have to keep asking but he didn't understand so it continued to the top and tested my nerves. We all continued on to Lobuche where we took a lunch break. At this point I was very glad that we were still hiking with Chris and Ronny because Membar and I had the same couple of conversations for the past week because his English was not great. 

Cho La Pass:

After lunch we continued onwards to Gorak Shep where we took another break before heading to base camp. I really did not know what to expect out of base camp. I had heard so many different things from other trekkers with mixed reviews that my expectations were fairly low. Up until I began the trek I idealized base camp but then heard that it isn't that impressive, it's okay, it's the highest trash dump in the world brought my expectations back down. However, on the way there I ran into a couple that I had seen several times throughout the past week and were on the same flight over. We stopped and chatted for a couple of minutes and at the end of our conversation the guy shook my hand and told me to enjoy it. I really appreciated this and began to get excited again as we approached base camp. The season for climbing Everest was over so when we arrived there were no tents but there were prayer flags and signs. It was very nice and there was not as much trash as I had expected. We all took loads of pictures, walked around, and I took a moment to myself to just appreciate where I was and that I had just completed another one of my life goals. I was also surprised by the ease of the hike from Gorak Shep to base camp but after Cho La pass I think mostly anything would seem easy. When we returned to our tea house at Gorak Shep I was freezing and once the sun went down it was hard to get warm. I had several layers on but it was not enough. I ended up getting my sleeping bag from my room to sit in while we ate dinner because I was so cold. I don't think I had ever been that cold in my life. It previous stops that I thought were cold at the time seem warm. The temperature in the main room was -20C and this was with a bunch of people and a fire. 

Base Camp:

Left to right: Chris, Summon, Membar, me, Ronny, Dipak

Day 9 

Pangboche 3980m

The next morning we were supposed to wake up at 4am to hike to the top of Kala Patthar. There was no way that I was going to wake up, get out of my sleeping bag and start hiking before the sun came up. I was just too cold and couldn't even think about doing it. I got up at 6 and hiked part way up. Again, Membar tested my patience. I just wanted to enjoy the view of Everest and soak in the surroundings in science but he liked the idea of jumping around and singing better. I told him that I was okay by myself, he didn't need to wait for me, and finally was blunt and just said I want to be alone. He hiked down and I sat on a rock for as long as I could stand the cold and then went back down as well. We all had breakfast and then Ronny and I left Chris who had to be evacuated by a helicopter because he did not feel well. We made it to Pangboche where we stayed in a lodge with a tv and watched the news. elections had been going on and it was a good time to be in the mountains because of protests and strikes. 

Kala Patthar:

Day 10

Namche 3440m

It was very nice to be back in Namche at Moonlight lodge! It felt extremely luxurious and warm compared to the conditions I was just in. I took a real hot shower! Ronny, Sumon and I had a few drinks and Yak steak to celebrate our accomplishment. It was a nice evening. 

Day 11

Lukla 2840m

At the beginning of our hike we were quite motivated and were running parts of the way down hill. At one point we had to sprint across a swinging bridge because there were yak that were heading our direction and we had to beat them to the other side. Luckily, we made it but as we were running to the other side I thought to myself...if I am going to die in Nepal, it is going to be now on this bridge because I could just think of all the broken bridges I had seen. It was nice not to deal with the elevation and I could tell it was easier to breathe and exert energy. It was a long day but not terribly difficult which was nice. In Lukla Ronny and I stayed at different lodges and I ended up making friends with a group of guys from Austria who took me to a pub for more celebrations. 

Our trek was supposed to take longer than it had and we were meant to fly out at a later date. However, it was supposed to be very easy to change flight tickets. Here arose more communication issues with Membar because I really wanted to fly back the next day which was the 22nd but he didn't really seem to care. I had to continually motivate him and ask him, have you gone to the airport? Have you talked to the people to change the flight? The day before he said the flight was changed and we needed to leave for the airport at 8:30am after breakfast I was ready to go on time and he we slowly made our way to the airport but we didn't go in, we just sat outside watching planes come in and fly out. Watching the planes was cool but I was getting worried about missing our flight which I was told left at 10am. While sitting there Sumon and Ronny walk up and are heading down to the airport so we join them. In the airport I see the couple from the start of the trek, the Austrians from the pub and two Americans I met at the pub. I talk to them all while Membar is running off doing his own thing. I didn't have a ticket or any of the information and when 10am passed and we were not on a plane I was beginning to think we didn't have a ticket. I found Membar and asked for my ticket because if I had that I didn't need to worry about where he was or how I was going to leave Lukla. He said he didn't have the tickets. "What?!" Yesterday he said we had tickets and now we don't. I killed time by making friends and talking to literally everyone that was in the airport. Slowly everyone boarded their own flights and left for Lukla until I was the only one sitting in the room and member was still missing. He finally came back and we got tickets! We sat around some more after we had our tickets and at 3:30pm we boarded the last plane that flew out of Lukla. It was a fairly rough ride because the clouds had come in and the weather took a turn for the worst. I was just happy we made it back to KTM. 

Lukla Airport:

The day after returning to kthatmandu I did a day tour of the city included in my trekking package. On this I saw:

An old city

Holy river

Buddha stupa

I also met up with Ronny, Sumon, Chris and Dipak for dinner and a couple beers which was nice and relaxed. After this I moved to the sparking turtle hostel near the monkey temple.