Wednesday, January 15, 2014

Tropical Paradise

Indonesia

I spent two days in Jakarta before making my way to Gerupuk where I spent the first two weeks of December at Surf Camp Lombok. The camp was very well run. Every day we had two sessions of surfing and usually some type of surf talk, movie, or outing. I have gone surfing several times before this camp but never properly taught. Basically I just knew people who surfed and had extra boards so I would go with them but not really know what I was doing. This camp was great because it allowed me to learn the basics properly, try various boards, and practice constantly. 

As expected I had good days and bad days, good waves and bad waves but the feeling of that amazing drop in, smooth bottom turn or slight cutback makes up for all the wipeouts and white water disasters and constantly motivates the desire to paddle hard for the next wave coming in. 

Besides surfing we

Made trips to Kuta 

Relaxed in hammocks & took naps between surf sessions 

Had a prom party night 

Went on sunset walks

Went cliff Jumping

Took boat trips 

Learned the importance of sunscreen especially in the Southern Hemisphere 
(Results of a second degree sunburn)

We would surf at three main locations in Grupuk bay, Dun duns, Insides and Outsides. 

My favorite spot quickly became outsides. I enjoyed it because it had three breaks and as beginners we could surf one and look over to the break next to us and see people getting barreled and getting steep drop ins. However, some of the waves there could be a little intimidating because you could hear a barrel that was crashing in the wake that you were paddling for. However, with the intimidation factor came a motivation factor for me. The bigger and steeper the wave appeared the more motivated I was to paddle for it and either get smashed or ride it out. More often than not I would get worked by the waves but the large ones that I was able to catch gave me the most amazing feeling that can't be explained but only appreciated by those that have also experienced it as well. 

After camp about 12 of us traveled to the Gili Islands arriving the 15th after a 6am surf. Here we had time to relax, have good food, and get to know each other better because we had more free time on our hands. 

We rode bikes around the entire island

Enjoyed fresh juices in bungalows by the beach

Had local food in the pouring rain

Did a snorkeling trip in a glass bottom boat to three reefs off of three islands

Learned Swedish drinking games

Occasionally relaxed in air conditioned huts

And got into the Christmas spirit


At this point in my travels I had absolutely no plans, no plane tickets, and no schedule to follow....

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